Camino Primitivo
Retrace the steps of the oldest Camino de Santiago pilgrims from the 9th century
Follow picturesque paths through the hills between Oviedo and Lugo
Walk through the serene Asturian countryside and quaint Galician villages
Savor local culinary delights, including Galician cheese and traditional ‘pulpo’ in Melide
Discover the spiritual heart of the Camino in towns steeped in pilgrimage history
Find out about the legends and miracles tied to ancient sites along the route
Itinerary
Your journey on the Camino Primitivo embarks from the majestic Cathedral of El Salvador in Oviedo, a city rich in history and academic vibrancy. You’ll traverse through the serene Asturian countryside, where quaint villages and the tranquil River Nora accentuate your path, culminating in a challenging ascent to the picturesque Escamplero. Along this route, landmarks like the chapel of El Carmen and the crossing of the River Nalón mark significant waypoints in your pilgrimage.
26 km
This segment of the Camino Primitivo presents a challenging ascent to Alto del Fresnu, followed by a more tranquil descent through hilly farmlands and quaint villages. Key highlights include the historically significant San Salvador Monastery in Cornellana and the traditional Asturian granaries, ‘hórreos,’ dotting the landscape. Your journey culminates in Salas, a town steeped in pre-Romanesque history.
22 km
This stage of the Camino Primitivo, though shorter in distance, presents a formidable challenge with its continuous ascent, especially pronounced in the early part of the day. Starting with a brief journey along a road, the path soon diverges onto quieter, scenic routes leading up to La Espina. Here, you’ll part ways with the Camino del Norte, venturing into a region abundant in local traditions and charm. Your day concludes in the historic center of Tineo.
20 km
This leg of the Camino Primitivo is a testament to the varied landscapes of the region, combining the challenge of rugged terrain with the peace of natural woodlands. You’ll navigate through a series of demanding hills and tranquil forests. The journey will lead you through the serene village of Vega de Rey and other quaint hamlets, culminating in a steep 300-meter descent into Pola de Allande.
28 km
Ascending from Pola de Allande, you’ll face a demanding 600-meter climb to the summit of Puerto del Palo, where the breathtaking vistas of the Cantabrian Mountains await as a reward for your efforts. The journey then shifts to a 250-meter descent along the ‘Camino de los Hospitales,’ a trail marked with technical sections that challenge and engage. Your day concludes amidst the serenity of lush forests as you reach Berducedo, your resting point for the night.
18 km
This part of the Camino Primitivo may be the most challenging yet immensely gratifying. Beginning in Berducedo, you ascend to the heights of Aerogenedores at 1100 meters, where panoramic views of the River Navia and the Embalse de Salime reservoir, nestled within mountains, unfold before you. The route then plunges 900 meters in a mere 7 kilometers to the dam, a descent both steep and exhilarating. The final stretch is a gentler climb, leading you through varied landscapes to your destination in Grandas de Salime.
20 km
Today’s journey on the Camino begins with an invigorating ascent to El Acebo, peaking at 1050 meters, where you’ll be greeted with magnificent views of the Cantabrian Mountains. This path marks the transition from the historical Asturias into the culturally rich Galicia, a land deeply rooted in Celtic heritage. Your route winds through the mountain villages of Fonfría and Barbeitos, leading to A Fonsagrada. This town is home to the Fons Secra fountain, tied to an inspiring miracle attributed to St. James.
26 km
Departing from A Fonsagrada, the Camino weaves towards A Pobra de Burón, known as the Camino de Oviedo. En route, you’ll encounter the historic Hospital de Montouto, once a pivotal pilgrim hospital in the mountains of Galicia, now standing as evocative ruins on a hilltop. The path continues through the picturesque villages of Calzada, A Lastra, and A Fontaneira, each adding to the rich tapestry of your journey. Your day culminates in O Cadavo – Baleira, a town of significant historical importance, noted for the legendary battle fought by Alfonso II the Chaste against the Moors in its vicinity.
24 km
The first part leads through regions renowned for their slate quarries towards the charming old village of Pradeda. Here, you’ll discover ‘pallozas,’ traditional thatched dwellings unique to Galicia. The route offers a visit to the serene convent of San Francisco de Vilabade and passes through the hauntingly beautiful abandoned village of Soutomerille. As you traverse through lush farmlands, you’ll arrive in the ancient city of Lugo. Lugo, celebrated for its impeccably preserved Roman wall, a UNESCO heritage site, encapsulates rich Roman heritage within its old town.
30 km
As you depart Lugo, your path leads you through the Porta Mina, the city’s oldest gate, guiding you toward the historical quarter of San Lazaro and across an ancient Roman Bridge. A few kilometers into your journey, you’ll encounter the national monument and museum Santa Eulalia de Bóveda, a site renowned for its early medieval paintings, among the most captivating in the Iberian Peninsula. The Camino then weaves through a blend of farmland and forest, culminating in Ferreira.
26 km
The journey progresses through Toques, bringing you into the historic town of Melide in the province of A Coruña. In Melide, the Original Way merges with the French Way, noticeably increasing the number of fellow pilgrims. This town offers a cultural treat with its famed ‘pulperías’ serving traditional ‘pulpo’ (octopus) and the opportunity to indulge in ‘melindres,’ the local aniseed-flavored cakes.
21 km
Leaving Melide, you now join the Camino Francés, merging paths with other pilgrims. Your walk is adorned with forest tracks, crossing picturesque streams and meadows, leading you to the village of Boente, where the ancient Santiago Church stands. The route then takes you through the idyllic village of Ribadiso and finally to Arzúa. In Arzúa, nestled in the heart of the dairy country, indulging in the local cheese is a must. The town also boasts significant historical sites, including the churches of Santa María and A Magdalena.
13 km
Your walk from Arzúa is characterized by a peaceful journey through shaded woods, alongside streams, and into tranquil villages. Along this serene path, make sure to visit the chapel of Santa Irene, notable for its unique statue of Santiago. The remainder of your route to Rúa-O Pino unfolds on quiet country roads, a quaint and less crowded stop before reaching Santiago de Compostela.
19 km
On this final day of your Camino journey, the trail to Santiago de Compostela is lined with history, from ancient monuments and chapels to storied bridges. You’ll reach Lavacolla, where pilgrims traditionally cleansed themselves in the river. The path, bordered by tall eucalyptus trees, leads to Monte do Gozo (Mount of Joy), offering the first glimpse of Santiago’s cathedral spires. Descending into Santiago, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you have the opportunity to explore its rich architecture and vibrant cultural atmosphere. This memorable day culminates in the city, inviting you to celebrate your journey’s end and experience the local dining scene.
18 km
Pricing
Included in price
13 nights with breakfast in a 2/3* hotel or country guest house
Digital guidebook with itinerary, route instructions, and practical information
GPS navigation with an easy-to-use app
Tour design and organization
Service and support during your hike
Optional Extras
Description
Journey along the Camino Primitivo and find yourself amidst a tapestry of history and beauty that weaves through the heart of Northern Spain.
This path, less trodden yet deeply historic, begins in the culturally rich streets of Oviedo, winding through the serene Asturian countryside, past quaint villages, over towering mountains, and into the soulful embrace of Galicia.
Each town along the way, from the picturesque Escamplero to the ancient walls of Lugo, tells a story, enriching your walk with layers of history, art, and tradition.
Traverse through serene forests, cross majestic bridges, and ascend to breathtaking summits like Puerto del Palo. And amid all that, you’ll discover architectural marvels like the Cathedral of El Salvador and the UNESCO-listed Roman wall of Lugo.
As the original pilgrimage route, this journey has tested the spirit and will of pilgrims for centuries. Known for its physical demands, the Camino Primitivo challenges with its elevations and rewards with unparalleled vistas and spiritual fulfillment. It’s a path of introspection and endurance.
While our tours traditionally begin with walking on the first day and conclude with walking on the last day, we understand that some travelers may wish to extend their stay. We can arrange additional days before or after the walking tour, complete with accommodation bookings.
Our commitment to you is unwavering. From arranging cozy accommodations to ensuring your luggage awaits at each new destination, we handle the details.
You’ll be equipped with GPS navigation and an in-depth travel booklet curated to enhance your understanding of the Camino Primitivo. And, should you need us, our 24/7 support is always just a call away, ensuring your journey is as seamless as it is memorable.
Your pilgrimage awaits – no medieval armor required. Just bring your spirit of adventure, and let us take care of the rest.
Location
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Things to know
Absolutely, many people embark on the Camino as solo travelers. There is a unique appeal in starting the Camino alone, as the journey’s nature often leads to forming new friendships with other pilgrims along the way. Walking alone offers flexibility and freedom in your schedule, allowing you to start and stop as you please and bond with a diverse range of people. Additionally, many find that starting the journey alone enhances the personal and spiritual aspects of the Camino experience.
The ideal times for walking the Camino are April/May, when spring flowers are in bloom, and September/October, known for their pleasant colors. The summer months (June, July, August) can be quite hot, which may be challenging for those unaccustomed to walking in high temperatures. Conversely, winter months see a significant drop in temperatures and some accommodations may close for the season.
The Camino routes, particularly the Camino Francés, Le Puy, and Camino Portugués, are well-marked and easy to navigate. The paths are marked with two main symbols: a yellow arrow or a seashell. These symbols guide you through every turn and twist of the path, making it straightforward to follow the routes. This excellent waymarking means that even those who are not experienced hikers can confidently navigate these routes without the fear of getting lost.
If you find yourself unable to walk a stage for any reason, there are several alternatives available. Public transport, such as buses or trains, may be accessible to help you reach the next destination. Alternatively, you can request the hotel reception to arrange a taxi for you. It’s important to listen to your body and utilize these options if needed, ensuring a comfortable and enjoyable journey.
The Camino offers a gastronomic adventure, with each region presenting its distinct cuisine. Even the smallest villages en route typically have restaurants or shops where you can purchase food. The ‘Menu del Dia’ (Pilgrim’s Menu of the Day) is a common and affordable option available along the Camino, usually including a starter, main course, dessert, bread, and local wine. The Camino Francés has numerous places for lunch. However, on quieter routes, it’s advisable to plan ahead and carry provisions, especially for remote sections. Also, note that in Spain, dinner is often served later in the evening, so it’s useful to have snacks for the interim period after a day’s walk.
You can read more thoroughly about food in our comprehensive guide about Camino de Santiago.
While it’s possible to complete the Camino with minimal physical preparation, preparing beforehand can significantly enhance your experience. Activities like hill walking or aerobic exercises in the months leading up to your trip are recommended. For cycling the Camino, comfort with cycling 60km daily over varied terrain is ideal. Starting with a moderate fitness level is beneficial, but for those starting from a lower fitness base, it’s crucial to begin training slowly and steadily increase intensity. Regular exercise, including walking, running, cycling, or swimming, and incorporating longer weekend activities with some hills, can greatly aid in preparing for the Camino.
Luggage transfers are arranged to move your bags from your current accommodation to the next overnight stop as per your itinerary. You are generally required to leave your bags at the accommodation reception by 08:00, and they will be delivered to your next stop before 17:00. This service allows you to walk unencumbered by heavy luggage, enhancing your walking experience.
While many travelers opt for baggage transfer for convenience, carrying your own bags is also a choice for those seeking a more traditional pilgrim experience. If you opt to carry your bags, packing light is essential, and you may need to do occasional laundry. Alternatively, the baggage transfer service can provide the comfort of a lighter load and a wider range of clothing options.
The Camino routes, especially the Camino Francés, are known to have good mobile signal coverage, considering their somewhat remote nature. However, it’s important to note that there might be occasional areas with weak or no signal, particularly in more secluded or mountainous sections. The coverage is generally better on the more popular routes and sparser on less-traveled paths. It’s recommended to inform loved ones about these possible communication gaps and to plan accordingly.
Walking the Camino as a solo female traveler is generally considered safe. The locals along the Camino routes are known for being respectful and helpful towards pilgrims. It is, however, always prudent to take standard safety measures, such as concealing valuables, particularly in larger cities. The Camino Francés, being the most popular route, is often recommended for solo travelers who may feel apprehensive, as it tends to have more fellow travelers to accompany you. Nonetheless, it’s always advisable to stay aware of your surroundings and exercise the usual travel safety precautions.
Yes, most accommodations in larger towns and cities along the Camino offer Wifi access. Be aware that in some places, there might be charges for using Wifi. However, in more rural and remote locations along the Camino, Wifi access becomes sparse. You may occasionally find Wifi in local cafes or eateries along the route, but it’s not guaranteed. It’s advisable for travelers to prepare for limited internet access in these areas and perhaps download necessary information or maps in advance.
The most challenging part of the Camino Francés is the first section, starting from St Jean Pied de Port, which involves navigating through the Pyrenees. This section includes steep inclines and declines and is considered the toughest part of the entire route. The first day’s walk is particularly demanding, with a majority of uphill walking. However, the breathtaking scenery and tranquil environment make the effort worthwhile.
Access to drinking water is relatively easy along the Camino. The tap water in Spain is safe to drink, though it may not always taste pleasant. Bottled water is readily available for purchase, and there are numerous water fountains along the route, as noted in guidebooks. Uniquely, there’s even a wine fountain on the Camino!
If you’ve arranged for a private transfer through a service like Macs Adventure, the journey from Santiago Airport to Sarria typically takes around 1.5 hours. This direct route is a convenient option for those looking to start their Camino experience smoothly, especially after a long flight.
Customization of your Camino journey is possible, with options including additional rest days, airport transfers, and adjustments to walking itineraries. However, due to limited accommodation options in certain areas, it might not be feasible to modify every single itinerary detail. It’s best to consult with Camino travel specialists to tailor your trip according to your preferences and needs.
The Camino features a diverse array of paths, making it difficult to characterize by a single type. The journey takes you through a variety of landscapes, from shaded woodlands and picturesque vineyard trails to rolling countryside dotted with medieval villages. There are also urban stretches where you may find yourself walking through less scenic outskirts of cities. This variety is part of the Camino’s unique charm, with each section offering a different experience. Paths range from farm and dirt tracks to minor roads and footpaths.
It’s advisable to book your Camino trip as far in advance as possible due to its high popularity, especially during Holy Year (when July 25 falls on a Sunday) as pilgrim numbers can increase significantly.
While bed bug encounters can occur in shared facilities and hostels along the Camino, the accommodations used by tour operators like Camino de Santiago Tours, typically comprising small hotels and guest houses, maintain high cleanliness standards and are less likely to have bed bug issues. Nevertheless, since bed bugs can be carried by people, there’s a small chance of them appearing in hotels, but such occurrences are quickly addressed by the accommodation providers.
Essential equipment for the Camino includes good walking boots or shoes, lightweight clothing suitable for varying weather conditions, waterproof gear, and a daypack. For a comprehensive list of recommended gear, refer to the information pack provided or consult resources like blogs specializing in Camino preparations.
Once your Camino journey has begun, altering your accommodation bookings and itinerary can be challenging due to the limited availability of alternative lodging on short notice. It’s important to have a well-thought-out plan before starting your walk.
While not essential, having some knowledge of Spanish can significantly enhance your experience on the Camino. Local inhabitants appreciate the effort, and it can facilitate smoother interactions. In Northern Spain, the Camino traverses regions with unique languages and cultures. Acknowledging and respecting these cultural nuances can enrich your journey. For routes outside Spain, like the Camino Portugués and Le Puy, learning basic Portuguese and French phrases can be beneficial for engaging more deeply with locals and fellow pilgrims.
In Santiago de Compostela, Mass is held at two different times: a midday Mass at 12:00 and an evening Mass at 19:30. Both Mass times can attract large crowds, so arriving early is recommended. The service is in Spanish, but attending is highly encouraged to celebrate the completion of your Camino journey.
The Pilgrim’s Passport, or credential, is a document carried by walkers on the Camino de Santiago. It’s typically included in your arrival package, but if not, it’s easily obtainable at pilgrim offices and churches along the route. As you journey to Santiago, you collect stamps in this passport from various locations like bars, hotels, churches, and even police stations. Upon reaching Santiago, presenting this passport at the Pilgrim Office certifies your pilgrimage, earning you the Compostela certificate if you’ve walked the last 100km. For other trail sections, the passport serves as a colorful and memorable souvenir of your journey.